Every Bikers Holy Grail: The Himalayan Odyssey
At 19,024 ft above sea level, breathing is hard, your head spins, and the lack of oxygen makes being at the world's highest motorable pass feel almost punishing. Yet the sheer joy of knowing you've made it - surrounded by riders who've shared the journey with you - makes you want to linger in that bliss a little longer, despite your brain screaming for air.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's rewind about 11 years, when a 19-year-old me rode to Leh on a 200cc bike, only to crash 5 km before Pangong Tso. I limped back to Leh, got the bike fixed, and rode all the way to Delhi - with no proper riding gear, gloves, jacket, or even a decent helmet. Funny enough, 11 years later, the gear still wasn't quite right (more on that later).
So when my boss mentioned an invite for the Himalayan Odyssey, I didn't hesitate: "Please let me go!" Thankfully, he agreed - 14 days of riding bliss awaited.
Day 1 – Chandigarh to Narkanda
The first week of July brought red alerts across Himachal and Delhi. We set off in pouring rain - I was soaked through boots, gloves, jacket, even the bike. I didn't mind much, but the thick fog was a pain, slowing us down and hiding all the views. Even in Narkanda, where our stay at Tethys Himalaya promised spectacular valley views, all we saw was grey fog, lingering into the next morning. The evening was warm though, with introductions, friendly banter about how we all got into riding, a bonfire, and a couple of cold beers. We turned in early - next day's ride loomed large.
Day 2 – Narkanda to Kalpa
Rain-triggered landslides delayed us early on, but after a 45-minute halt, the skies cleared. As we climbed higher, the rains faded and the valleys opened up in breath-taking beauty. Each day's 200 km target left plenty of time to soak in the scenery, shoot pictures, and just pause to enjoy. By the time we reached Kalpa, the hotel balcony's view of the majestic mountain range was unforgettable. That evening I finally felt like myself again - dry, happy, and chatting away with everyone.
Day 3 – Kalpa to Kaza
This was the most exciting day yet. The ride into Spiti was smooth and stunning - perfect roads and endless wallpapers in every direction. It was almost overwhelming trying to take it all in. About 20 km from Kaza though, my front tyre went flat. The backup "gun wagon" - Royal Enfield's aptly-named support vehicle - was still far behind, so I sat by the roadside for two and a half hours watching everyone I'd overtaken ride past. Once they swapped out the tyre, I was back on the bike and rolled into Kaza, our hotel sitting serenely next to a monastery.
The next day was a much-needed rest day. But ever have I adhered to the directives. I rode to the highest village in the world, Komic, which is at an altitude of 15,000 ft and then went to Hikkim, which has the highest post office in the world. Wrote a postcard to my boss who has been patient with my blunders, but I doubt it will make it to the recipient, for my handwriting to the naked eye is closer to Hebrew than English. The Key monastery was also a quaint attraction near Kaza where I shared a conversation and several herbal teas with the monks and discussed why are some people the way they are, to which I was told - A person is as a person does.
Day 4 – Kaza-Keylong
This was one of the key highlights of the odyssey, and I had no idea that by the time I reached Keylong I would be in no shape to even talk to anyone, be it on the phone or in person. If you are into adventure riding and that too some hardcore stuff, Kaza to Keylong, the 190 km journey ought to quench your thirst. Initially, the roads were rather kind, but that was the terrain being modest. After the first 50 km we encountered our first water crossing, first of many and quite a few riders were claimed as casualties as the water level was at par with the hip of a 5'8 man. And that was only the tip of the ice berg. Right after the Kunzum pass, a rider met with an accident on a bridge that broke a couple of his ribs, and eventually he had to retreat and leave the journey.
The roads are treacherous and unforgiving, and technically, they are not roads. It is like riding on a river bed that keeps changing constantly. Sometimes it is gravel, pebbles, small rocks and sometimes, all of the above-mentioned with water on top of it. But the best part, after the rough and scrutinising terrain tests your mettle and skills, you are blessed with tarmac for the last 45-odd kilometres. And that is when you realise the value of something that has been in your access for all along, well-paved tarmac. I felt like kissing the blacktop. When I reached the hotel in Keylong, I was drained of any energy, fatigued to the point that I did not have the energy to eat dinner. I turned in early, as the next destination was Sarchu.
Day 5 – Keylong to Sarchu
The journey from Keylong to Sarchu was rather short, but it had a purpose. Sarchu was the ground zero to acclimatise. It is 14,070 feet above sea level, and if one can survive Sarchu with stable vitals, the journey ahead becomes rather easy. And this was exactly when I discovered that I myself am a victim of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS), and my symptoms were something that I should have reported to the doctor immediately. I was not able to sleep for the past two days, and in Sarchu, during some friendly banter, I just brushed the topic of having trouble while sleeping. The doctor said that I was experiencing AMS and I should take medication. Since I am quite reluctant to ingest pills, I asked the doctor to wait another day before I pop a pill for anything at all. And with time, I started sleeping, probably because fatigue overpowered the AMS symptoms. But the camp that we were staying in was in the middle of the valley with beautiful vistas and cold winds. Some even opted to play a game of cricket.
Day 6 – Sarchu to Leh
A good 251 km and that starts with Gata Loop, a series of 21 hairpin bends, a 10 km stretch that climbs to an altitude of 17,000 feet that leads to the Nakee La pass. And this is where the views start to hypnotise you. The graceful mountains with a foreground of plains with no vegetation. It is actually nothingness that has an elegance which can't be explained with mere words. I can find multiple adjectives that will be rendered as futile attempts, because nothing would do justice to one being present in the middle of More Plains after crossing Pang.
This place, while you are on the go or at a standstill, it will prompt you to think about so many things, such as life, purpose, existence, death, work, love, and for someone as calloused as me, as soon as I stopped I became aware of how this trip will soon be a distant memory. A trip inside your own head can sometimes be a little daunting and at times, too blissful, to realise how you perceive the world as being exclusive to just you, and that in a way is a beautiful thing to cherish. Leh was another 161 km away from where I took a break, and the rest of the journey was me cruising through twists and turns with a grin from ear to ear. And throughout, I was thinking to myself, "What a privilege to experience this".
Day – 7 Leh to Hanle
A good 311 km from Leh was the second last stop before we reached the summit of our trip. And a good 50 km before hitting Hanle it was another More Plains kind of terrain, which just fiddles with my brain. It was well-paved roads in the middle of a cold desert that exudes a feature which, to the naked eye, is captivating. It made me realise how small I am and how little I mattered, and real wealth is in the experience of telling a beautiful story to people who you matter to and who matter to you. And I happen to have the privilege to tell this story to not just my near and dear ones, but to everyone who reads this. And that is something you can't put a price on, not in my books.
That night in Hanle, I took a long walk with our doctor Nagesh, under a sky full of stars that lit up the city in a way that would put street lights to shame. We spoke of how riders from across the country and even from international countries are sharing this experience, where we began as strangers and will soon part ways as good friends, how it was written in the stars to go through river crossings and arduous terrain while helping each other through thick and thin. I saw so many satellites moving through the sky along with shooting stars and constellations so clearly. I realise what we miss in the cities, and about two decades ago, the city nights were also filled with stars. We traded comfort for grace and elegance, it seems.
Day 8 – Hanle to Umling La
160 km from Hanle is the highest motorable road in the world, at an elevation of 19,024 ft and the road, sorry, there are no roads; you are basically riding through gravel, sand, pebbles, except for the last 25 km which has paved tarmac. But this ride is what gives you absolute freedom; you are riding on an open ground which is craved by adventure fanatics. A nice adventure bike will give you a sense of freedom to take your own trail to the destination, and that's like a dream come true. The open space coupled with your bike trigger a whim to ride while singing songs, shouting at the top of your voice inside the helmet or just listening to the hum of the wind. It is one of the best feelings I have ever had in my life, and such moments are seldom. Upon reaching the summit, we all hugged each other, and smiles were rampant. A journey of 941 km has ended, and I will be off to New Delhi on the next flight.
A few highlights: if you are into adventure riding, the Kaza to Keylong has everything to quench your thirst for extreme off-road terrain. If you are about mesmerising views, the ride from Pang to Leh and Leh to Hanle should certainly be on your bucket list. And if you want to do all three, then the Royal Enfield Himalayan is a very capable machine. It is like a workhorse that won't disappoint you, and it looks rugged, just the way it rides. And the last highlight, this one you cannot replace, it's the people who tagged along for this one. My roommate for the entire ride was a fellow rider from the Czech Republic who is now like an elder brother to me. We rode together and learnt so much from each other. Well, he learnt Hindi phrases which can get him into trouble, and I learnt some Czech to be a better tourist if and when I visit the Czech Republic. I also developed a bond with Jayraj from Bengaluru and Nagesh, the doctor for the trip. At the end of the trip, for me, it was never about riding to the highest motorable road in the world. But the journey prompted slight changes in the way I will henceforth ride and conduct myself. Varun and Bharat were the riders who kept the whole motorcade intact. Correcting and helping people who were riding in such a tough setting for the first time.
And why the Himalayan Odyssey is an amazing platform? Well, your safety is taken care of by a doctor on site throughout the journey, and similarly, from a minor flu to massive damage to your bike is sorted by the gun wagon with three mechanics on board. You are covering just 200-250 km a day with rest days planned to acclimatise with the rising altitude. And you are accompanied by skilled riders who have ridden the terrain several times. And your companions? Riders who share the same passion for motorcycles and adventure from across the country and the globe.
And at the briefing, I was told two things – Once you are done with the Himalayan Odyssey, you go in as a rider and you come back as an explorer. Which remains true, the amount of obstacles you face in this journey reinforces your confidence in dealing with adversities. And second, mentally, you will be riding and existing on those roads with the mighty and beautiful mountains in the backdrop. And let me tell you, while waking up early in the morning, packing up bags and riding 200-250 km was not the easiest routine, it certainly beats a 19 km ride to the office where the air you breathe is worse than the traffic you face daily. And the icing on the cake? Once you complete the Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey, you can't participate for the next 10 years. And technically, I did not complete it, I never did the Zanskar leg, so maybe, I can request them for the next Odyssey on the basis of this glitch. Here's hoping that they buy it and extend an invite next year. Happy to have gotten Leh'd, proper.
Picture credits - Sumesh Soman & Royal Enfield